Battling Barbecue: A Hungry THG Tackles Some Chain 'Que

Happy Fourth of July to all our American readers and I hope you're getting ready to enjoy a long holiday weekend filled with doing patriotic stuff like grilling, wearing too much red, white & blue and overindulging the way we Americans do. Just don't blow any fingers off with illegal fireworks. My guess is this column will get lost in the holiday shuffle but it has been rattling around in my head in one form or another for months now, so I felt like it was time to do a brain dump. Enjoy!

I've often found that food – no matter the preparation or pedigree – almost always tastes best at the end of a long day when your hunger is gnawing at your gut something fierce.

For example, my Mom made a wicked simple tuna and macaroni salad and nothing, I mean NOTHING satisfied my hunger more after a night at Philly punk clubs like The Khyber Pass or Dobbs than a heaping bowl or three of that mass of elbows, tuna and mayo.

So I must admit that we were a little surprised by the polar opposite reactions we had to a couple of barbecue chains during our recent travels.

Readers of this blog are well aware of my fondness for Andy Nelson's, a Baltimore County-based barbecue restaurant just up the road from us. Pulled pork, smoked wings, slabs of ribs, creamy slaw, piquant redskin potato salad... it doesn't matter, Andy Nelson's has delivered the goods as long as we've been going there.

So when they started building a Famous Dave's across from the local State Fairgrounds I looked upon the rising edifice with a mix of guilt and optimism like I was some sort of adulterer. I'd never actually been to a Famous Dave's, but it had received grudging recommendations from friends and I'm always up for giving a new place a try.

Even a chain.

While I'm not sure how the topic of visiting Famous Dave's came up, I'm not surprised since we were in the midst of driving the 8 hours from Maryland to Virginia and back to pick up a new car and, well, we like to talk about food.

The wild card of the trip was that our daughter, then age 7, was in that "pukey car ride phase" that I guess curses a lot of kids. Car trips to and from Florida were met with quick shoulder pullovers and equally quick recoveries as she shook it off and smiled away, next destination on the horizon, puke-filled grocery bag left by the roadside. Sorry, Florida highway workers!

But with one Pukey McGee incident already "in the bag" on the ride to VA we decided that a stop along the way home from the car dealership might be a bad idea. Especially since she was riding with her mother. In the new car.

After arriving home and debating our options we ended up at Famous Dave's, outrageously hungry and somewhat optimistic that we'd made a decent – if not perfect – choice to satisfy our barbecue-loving bellies.

Barbecued Nachos at Famous Dave's

I had a feeling things were going to be a bit rocky when the platter of something called Barbecue Nachos arrived at the table (see picture). A wholly unsatisfying mix of lettuce (?!), nacho chips, chili and other "stuff" (I think there was some sort of meat buried under there), it looked like two servers carrying separate platters had crashed into one another and the resulting monstrosity landed on our table. Granted, I'm not above enjoying an abominable looking appetizer every now and then but this looked and tasted all sorts of wrong, setting a rather disappointing tone for the start of the meal.

I'm still not sure what that sauce on top was supposed to be.

And, please take into consideration that we'd eaten nothing more than a breakfast bar and bottled water in the car dealership waiting room since the wee hours of that morning. Famous Dave should have been able to slather cheese and chili on a slab of wet cardboard in order to satisfy us.

Unfortunately, we hadn't set the bar quite low enough.

I prayed the entrees would be met with a better reception, downed another beer (I recall the selection being equally forgettable as the rest of the meal... spoiler alert!) and hoped for the best. Especially since a friend, knowing my affection for chicken and familiar with my above average homemade ribs had suggested I lean toward the poultry when making my selection.

Alas, it was not to be. Chicken was fortunately forgettable but the ribs were a nightmare that will linger on my palette for years to come. (Come on, I was at a barbecue place. I had to get the rib and chicken combo.) Caked? Coated? Lacquered? I'm not even sure what the right word is to describe the application of the super sweet, cloying sauce that instantly masked any flavor the ribs may have actually had. Even my wife and daughter – card carrying lovers of sweetness – were equally turned off by what they found as our platters were picked at and pushed to the side with a collective wrinkle of the nose.

The Chicken & Rib Platter at Famous Dave's

But, as Ryan said, "at least the cornbread was good". And I'm going to trust her on that because I've blocked out most of the finer details to the point that I almost feel like I should pop in one day for lunch just to make sure it wasn't better than I remember. And judging from the almost always empty parking lot I don't think I'd have trouble grabbing a table.

Fast forward a few months and we're on our way to Florida for one of our whirlwind Sunshine State excursions. Along with everyone in Maryland, Virginia and North and South Carolina who had the same damn idea, resulting in hour upon hour of bumper-to-bumper roadways.

But we're road warriors and we're determined to make it to Georgia so that our second day of travel can be a little easier, meaning that we continue to forge ahead in the face of a sea of brake lights, hoping that each easing of the traffic pattern will mean clear sailing ahead.

It didn't.

Upon arriving at a Brunswick, GA hotel that had decent looking accommodations (and, uh, available rooms) we quickly surveyed the dining options that didn't require anybody getting behind the wheel of the car. Winn Dixie? CVS? Scary Looking Chinese Place?

Or we could literally walk through the parking lot and end up at Sonny's BBQ.

Ignoring the feral cat and its glowing red eyes we made our way to a booth, ordered some ice cold Yuengling Lager (the closest Sonny's comes to craft beer it appears), forsook appetizers due to our raging hunger and dove into plates of ribs and chicken.

"Holy crap," I thought. "This is actually pretty good."

Quick glances at the appreciative looks from my wife and daughter confirmed that despite its chain roots and slightly trashy ambience, Sonny's was a hit with our family. Ribs had a slight give when pulled from the bone, mac & cheese received a thumbs up from Ryan, and even the waitress charmed us by asking to see some ID. (I hope I left a big tip.)

And with that we retreated to our hotel rooms, slipped on some comfy pants and drifted off to sleep under the power of Sonny's BBQ, another day on the road awaiting us.

While I'd rather support an independent place like Right on Q, at least we know Sonny's delivers when weary travelers beckon. – Dan Taylor

Dan Taylor (aka The Hungover Gourmet) is a barbecue aficionado and the editor/publisher of The Hungover Gourmet. You can follow his exploits and eats here at the blog as well as on Twitter and Facebook. Back issues of the award-winning THG zine are available from the webstore.

Mission BBQ Grand Opening and Charity Night

I haven't made it to their Glen Burnie location yet but I'm happy to hear that Mission BBQ is opening a second location in Perry Hall. Grand opening and ribbon cutting ceremony is Monday, November 19 at noon but you can try them out tonight, Friday, November 16, from 5-9 PM with all proceeds going to benefit the Wounded Warrior Project.

You can RSVP for tonight's charity night at their website or by emailing mission21236@mission-bbq.com.

At Least They Didn't Put Cheese on It: BK's Bummer Menu

I have a love/hate relationship with most of the "limited time only" offerings from Burger King.

On the one hand I love that they push the envelope more than counterparts like McDonald's and Wendy's. While those places seem to be content recycling previous "hits" (McRib) or simply revamping existing items (Spicy McBites, chicken sandwich with hot sauce or cheese or cheesy hot sauce), you get the feeling that the folks at BK are at least trying when they trot out some superhero-flick-inspired sandwich or, in the case of this review, the 2012 BK Summer Menu.

On the other hand, I hate that 9 times out of 10 the execution is so wrong-headed and mind-boggling that I wonder why I fall for it again and again and again. (Oh, right, I'm highly suggestible.) At least when Taco Bell pushes the envelope, even when the execution falls on its face, I know what they were attempting to do. I may not have loved the Doritos Tacos but I've gone back and had them twice.

To be frank, I knew that the BK Summer Menu – especially the Memphis Pulled Pork Sandwich – was destined to be another letdown. The question was, would it be a Loaded Steakhouse Letdown or a Burger Shots Letdown?

And so, on my way home from a long trip – with a ferocious hunger burning in my belly – I decided to take the plunge and see what the menu offered. I pulled in and ordered the Memphis Pulled Pork Sandwich, the Carolina BBQ Whopper, a side of Sweet Potato Fries and the Bacon Sundae.

It didn't take long to realize that the Memphis Pulled Pork was wrong on just about every level. At first I thought the "pulled pork" was some type of "pork patty" along the lines of the McRib, but I realized it was probably just a byproduct of the precise portioning that comes with any fast food offering. This surely isn't the same pulled pork that I make at home or get from Andy Nelson's up the road, but is pretty close to the stuff you'll find in pre-sealed tubs in the meat section at your local supermarket. Processed and shredded to the point where it almost looks pre-chewed it's the perfect sandwich if you're really in the mood for something like Lloyd's but don't feel like using your microwave.

Adding insult to injury are the toppings and bun. Instead of making it a real Memphis-style pulled pork sandwich topped with tangy cole slaw on a soft bun that almost becomes one with the insides, BK chose to add sliced onions (WTF?!) and a cloying "sweet Southern dressing" before placing the whole thing between halves of a warm, toasted artisan-style bun.

As I said to my wife, "at least they didn't put cheese on it".

The Carolina BBQ Whopper fares slightly (and I mean slightly) better, but only because there's a Whopper lurking somewhere beneath all the faux-tasting bacon and that goddamn "sweet Southern dressing" which makes another unwanted, unwarranted appearance. Apparently the burger is topped with Bulls Eye Carolina Style BBQ Sauce (which boasts of mustard and BBQ spices) but I couldn't taste anything beyond that damn, damn dressing.

Not surprisingly, the Sweet Potato Fries and Bacon Sundae were the high points of the meal. The fries taste almost exactly like the frozen Alexia Sweet Potato Fries I buy in bulk at Costco and the Bacon Sundae featured just the right mix of sweet and savory thanks to a blend of vanilla soft serve (touted by many bloggers as the best fast food soft serve out there), chocolate fudge, caramel, bacon crumbles and a decadent piece of thick cut bacon as a garnish.

I'm tempted to swing by and try the Texas BBQ Whopper – the only offering that doesn't have that dressing – and grab another Bacon Sundae, but I might be better off to test out the Taco Bell Cantina Menu which appears to be an attempt to rebrand the chain rather than simply repackage existing menu offerings.

Right on Q Barbecue (Brunswick, GA)

While uploading some photos to my computer this afternoon it dawned on me that I'd never posted pics and thoughts on Right on Q Barbecue located in Brunswick, GA, which we tried on our way down to Disney World in March.

Frankly, we almost didn't have the opportunity to stop and try this place. We were making great time on our trek from Baltimore to Orlando and were considering pushing through to Jacksonville in order to make Saturday's final leg even shorter. Unfortunately, only two places had hotel rooms for the night: one was $50 per room and despite that super low price informed us they had "plenty of rooms" available. The second had just a few rooms left, but was kind enough to let us know that they were hosting a high school girls volleyball tournament and there would be 75 girls ages 13 to 15 roaming the hotel.

With a 4-year-old in tow and a desire to get a good night's sleep we decided to stick with the reservation we'd made in Brunswick and head out for a nice meal rather than battle giggling, screaming teenagers. I'll have plenty of that to deal with down the road.

Brunswick is only an exit or two removed from where we've stayed on previous trips to the area and just a stone's throw from St. Simon's, where we visited and sampled some 'que a few years back. So, despite my desire to try Krystal (the White Castle of the South) and Ryan's insistence on pizza, we decided to venture out and give Right on Q a try.

Luckily, our timing was great and we arrived shortly before a group of 40 made their way to the dining room. The large, nondescript building looks like it may have been something else in a previous life and once we got close we realized we'd passed it before on trips over to St. Simon's.

I wish I'd taken a photo of the "barbecue" side of the menu, but you can always check out the restaurant's website here. Chris and I both decided on the "2 Way" which featured any two of their meats (pork, sausage, brisket, chicken, turkey, ribs) plus two sides for $12.49.

Since I'm of the opinion that a barbecue joint is only as good as their pork and ribs that was my choice. Chris went for the brisket and ribs, only to discover after our orders were in that they were out of the brisket. Though my wife doesn't like surprises and hates making snap decisions she decided on the turkey – and it turned out to the move of the night.

I was a little disappointed that the pork turned out to be more of the "chopped" than "pulled" variety but it was still quite tasty and I made a quick sandwich using a piece of garlic toast.

The ribs were excellent... tender with just a hint of resistance. Sides were top-notch, too. I don't know if the cole slaw is homemade but I'd rank it among the best restaurant slaws I've ever tasted and the sweet potato fries come with some sort of honey butter dipping sauce that you'll want to put on pretty much everything you eat.

Chris went with the ribs, baked beans (another excellent side) and sweet potato fries to go with her turkey. Though I'm disappointed we didn't get a chance to try the brisket, the smoked turkey breast was phenomenal and definitely the highlight of the meal (though the slaw and dipping sauce were mighty fine, too).  Instead of the dry, over-smoked turkey you can get at some 'que joints, the turkey at Right on Q was moist, juicy and tender, almost melting in your mouth.

The clientele on that Friday evening seemed like a pretty steady mix of regulars, always a good sign when there are plenty of other culinary options in the area.

McRib Returns for Those of Us Who Don't Live in Germany

The McRib is back!

In related news, did you know that in Germany it is on the menu all year?!

So, will you be altering your dining plans to fit in a McRib (or seven) before they – like the elusive sasquatch – disappear out of sight?

101 Urban BBQ Joints

There are two topics that I simply won't discuss with most people, let alone argue about: religion and politics.

Barbecue/BBQ might soon join the list.

Seems like anybody who goes out on a limb to suggest that they like BBQ Joint A more than BBQ Joint B opens themselves up to a lot of potential insults, suggestions about their manhood, and maybe even questions about their lineage.

Frankly, I even find myself doing like, like when NY Magazine's Grub Street sent me a link to their new list of 101 Urban BBQ Joints. Compiled with input from chefs, food writers and other journalists the list features a wide-ranging selection of urban 'cue joints as well as some tried-and-true classics.

Of course, the first thing I did was scroll through the slideshow (hey guys, how about an easier to navigate list?) to find Baltimore's representatives, sure that I'd find my beloved Andy Nelson's in there.

Nope, the list features Big Bad Wolf (which seems to be the yin to Andy Nelson's yang) and ... Chaps? Granted, I'm not from Baltimore so I don't get the whole "pit beef" thing. Sure, it's okay and I enjoyed my one visit to Chap's back in 2005, but I'd venture that The Canopy is better and if you're going to talk urban 'cue in Baltimore I just don't know how you leave Andy Nelson's off that list.

See, there I go. I better stop before I insult somebody!

Beers and BBQ

Had a great day this past Saturday hanging with friends and eating massive amounts of homemade pulled pork and our favorite Slow Oven Cooked Ribs. And even though the Beer Snob wasn't in attendance, I made sure the beer selection ran the gamut from the light and refreshing (Yuengling Lager and Natty Boh) to heavier, more complex brews.

Frankly, I had ulterior motives. Ever since my local liquor store stopped carrying six packs of Lancaster Valley Milk Stout I've been on a hunt for another dark, delicious beer that goes well with anything from BBQ and steaks to dessert or just sitting around the fire pit.

One beer that I can definitely say will not be taking its place is the Retro 60s Formula of Schlitz or as it's also known, Schlitz Gusto. Good pal David Zuzelo grabbed some as a lark, thinking that we could compare its taste to 7-11's Game Day which we tried last year. Well, somebody call the good folks at 7-11 because the 60s Schlitz makes Game Day taste like Pilsner Urquell!

There were a couple coffee stouts in contention because, well, it's coffee and it's beer. What's not to like? I didn't get a chance to try the Long Trail Coffee Stout but the comments I heard and reviews I've read suggest that this one might be a little too strong on the coffee taste and aroma for me. I probably don't want that so I'm not sorry I missed out.

The Lagunitas Cappucino Stout, on the other hand, was not just a subtle, creamy and slightly sweet brew, but at only about $5 for a large bottle – about half of the cost of Long Trail or most other high end brews – it's also a lot easier on the wallet. I dug this one and it was definitely true to the name. The beer was a little sweet and a little creamy, perfect for drinking after dinner with a piece of chocolate cake or maybe some fudge brownies.

I'd had Great Divide Yeti Oak Aged Imperial Stout before... back in the fall, I believe. The high alcohol content gave it a little bit of a metallic aftertaste at that time, sort of like sucking the blood out of a pricked finger. I don't know if it was because I'd been eating and drinking various things all afternoon or because I was sampling a much smaller amount – no surprise that everybody wants to try a beer with a yeti on the label – but this time the beer was just perfect for a relaxing after dinner chat about trashy movies while sitting around a nice fire. It's potent and packs a wallop, but worth splurging on.

I didn't have enough of the Samuel Adams Longshot Blackened Hops to really judge. The three Longshot winners come packed two per six-pack, which is nice but I really didn't want to try the beer that was brewed with lavender petals. Wish I could have gotten a full six-pack of this, though, as I thoroughly liked what I tried. The beer is dark with just enough carbonation that, unlike a lot of the other beers I sampled, you could sit down with this one for a session. The American style ale is much lighter than a stout and similar to a porter, making this one a brew I'd search out again.

The night's big winner, at least from a beer standpoint, was probably Old Dominion Oak Barrel Stout. I bought this one purely on the strength of its slightly sinister label and was richly rewarded with an oak-aged stout that delivers a velvety smooth brew with just the right amount of coffee flavor to go along with a hint of vanilla thanks to being fermented with vanilla bean. Not overpowering but also not the kind of beer you'll want to drink more than two or three of at a time. The perfect accompaniment to barbecued goodness and a new fave of The Hungover Gourmet! Plus, it's brewed in nearby Dover, DE so I'm hoping that it will be easy to pick up near home or at the brewery.

Win Tickets to Safeway BBQ Battle in DC!

Want to attend next weekend's 19th Annual Safeway BBQ Battle in our nation's capital?

Thanks to our friends at Perdue, The Hungover Gourmet is giving away a pair of general admission tickets good for either Saturday, June 25 or Sunday, June 26.

The Barbecue Battle is one of the country's premier barbecue competitions with cooking demonstrations by celebrity chefs, 30 bands, free food samples and the National Pork Barbecue Championship Contest with teams from around the country vying for more than $40,000 in cash and prizes... not to mention the coveted bragging rights!

On Saturday, Perdue's executive chef Chris Moyer will be hosting a chicken cooking demonstration and the company will be holding their Sizzlin' Chicken BBQ Contest! Come on out, check out the demo and sample some free Perdue chicken while you're at it.

Courtesy of Perdue we have a pair of general admission tickets good for Saturday, June 25 (11 AM - 9 PM) or Sunday, June 26 (11 AM - 7:30 PM). Good one day only, event held rain or shine, no cash value.

To enter simply e-mail your name and address to editor@hungovergourmet.com. We will hold a random drawing on Tuesday, June 21, 2011 and tickets will be mailed via USPS Priority Mail on Wednesday, June 22, 2011.

Would You Go to Quiznos for Your Pulled Pork?

Admittedly, Quiznos has always been more like QuizNO to me.

I grew up in South Jersey and do not understand the concept of a toasted sub. I don't like hot bread messing with the nice cold meats, cheeses, condiments and toppings. Might be for some people but hey, it's not for me.

But even if I was "a big toasted sub guy" (as my daughter might say) I still think I'd be steering clear of the new Quiznos Southern BBQ Pulled Pork and the Pork Cuban. (Okay, maybe I'd try the Pork Cuban, but that's supposed to be hot and toasty.)

When I think pulled pork I think of a long, slow cooking process at a low temperature till the meat just falls apart as you shred it... the smoky aroma dancing around the edges of the meat... a tangy, not too sweet barbecue sauce meshing with some cool, creamy cole slaw... all nestled atop a spongy roll that just soaks up all the goodness.

Somehow I don't think that's what I'm going to find at Quiznos. Maybe they could prove me wrong but these days I wouldn't even know where to go. Our local Quiznos couldn't even stay in business and has been turned into the equally-appalling Subway.

Wild Card Weekend!

You can have Super Bowl Sunday. Wild Card Weekend might be my favorite sports weekend of the year... four NFL playoff games (including both my Eagles and Ravens), random college hoops and NHL matchups, plus a bonus college football "national championship" game on Monday night. Doesn't get much better than that!

After getting in a quick run I'll be heading to the kitchen to whip up some brats, ribs and chicken for the festivities.

What's on your weekend menu?

Take Me Out to The Ballpark: Part 1

While getting my post-breakfast, pre-lunch coffee at Wawa this morning the cashier and I struck up a conversation about Citizens Bank Park (CBP), the new(ish) home of the Philadelphia Phillies. Prompted – I assume – by the Phils t-shirt I was wearing, the cashier informed me that despite his allegiance to Chicago's purveyors of the "national pastime" he loves CBP and suggested that when I get there on Wednesday evening I should seek out the pulled pork and grilled kielbasa at Bull's BBQ.

Ah yes, Wednesday evening. To say the date has been circled on my calendar well in advance is like saying a 7-year-old looks forward to Christmas.

Not only will the evening feature my first trip to a Philly ballpark since my wife and I bid a fond farewell to the Vet, but it also mark an equally long-overdue reunion of sorts with Chris, Scott (aka Koog) and Joe – a trio of pals I've known for, well, let's just leave it at many, many years. Hell, I'd venture that Chris has known me longer than anybody I'm not related to by blood.

Knowing that I was going to be descending upon the park whipped into a food frenzy of orgiastic proportions, I decided that I had to channel my inner culinary Boy Scout and be prepared. Chris and Scott were all-too-eager to help and have been filing reports from their various visits to the park over the course of the season.

Despite the welcome culinary advice from my chatty cashier pal, it seems that THG's trusted advance scouts might quibble with his recommendation. Here's a report the dynamic duo filed earlier this season...

After learning that the hot dog contest was over, we wandered around a bit to find some eats. The line at Tony Luke's was about 40 people deep and unless I haven't eaten in a week, I'm not standing in that kind of line for food, so a TL cheesesteak was out. We made our way to the Schmitter stand and watched them mass produce these overloaded piles of calories and fat. It really doesn't look particularly appealing so we took a pass and made our way to Bull's BBQ pit. Koog had the Bulldog and I opted for the Pulled Pork Sandwich. And yes I ate the bread. I'll allow Scott to provide his food commentary (see below). The pulled pork was adequate – smoked nicely and tender but over-sauced. It could use a little more subtlety a la less barbeque sauce drenching it. The cole slaw was awful – way too much mayo. The baked beans were not bad but they and the pork could have been a little hotter. Overall, I'd give it 2.5 stars out of 5. While better than the crap they served at the Vet, I have become spoiled. I want good food at the ballpark. The real find was the Leinenkugel Summer Shandy. Fortunately they sell it on tap at a stand near my seats. Nice wheat beer with a hint of lemon. A perfect adult beverage for a hot day in the sun. – Chris R.

I'd had my fill of barbecue on a southern trip just a week before, so I wasn't too particularly inclined to try the CBP version of BBQ. Anyway, I've had it before. However, long lines for what would likely be mediocre cheesesteaks didn't seem all that attractive, so we went for it. I opted for the Bulldog, more a sausage than a 'dog'. True to it's namesake, former Phillie slugger Greg "Bull" Luzinski, it looks big, menacing, and appears to be more than you can handle. [Ed. Note: No word on whether it swings at pitches in the dirt like a drunken or fields its position like a pregnant mule.] For all it appeared, this Bulldog was no more than a dachsund. All bark, no bite. While it looked luscious, and even appeared to have the ruddy complexion of spicy hot sausage, the bulldog was no more than a bland tube of meat. It didn't seem to know what it was. Spicy italian? No. Smoked Sausage? No smoke flavor either. Best I could figure was that it was a Kielbasa, but lacked the smoky, garlicky punch that I expect from the best polish meat-torpedoes.

I really want to like Bull's BBQ and will try it again. The restaurant, and CBP in general are a noble experiment in ballpark dining. The concept of actually giving fans a place to spread out, congregate and even choose from multiple dining options (as in a food court) only makes the ballpark experience better. The fact that a place as far north as Philly would devote so much space to a 'cue outlet in a ballpark is even that much better. I appreciate it, but it needs to come up a notch. CBP has been voted among the best in ballpark food every year since its opening. High standards must be set.

I second the vote on Summer Shandy. I was a bit skeptical of Leinenkugel beers after my first experience with their Sunset Wheat. Wheat beers are great by me; they're almost a meal in themselves. However, what I didn't expect with the Sunset Wheat is the over-the-top flavoring with coriander. I love coriander, mind you, in my food (particularly Asian dishes). Not in my beer. This brew tasted like my beer had a collision with the lady at the Chanel counter at Macy's. Summer Shandy, on the other hand, is also a wheat beer, flavored instead with lemonade and a touch of honey. It's definitely not sweet, but very refreshing. It really slaked the thirst – perhaps too well, on a hot spring day. Buy it while this seasonal brew still is on the shelves. – Scott W. aka Koog

Will the Bull get another chance on Wednesday night? Can I actually resist the siren song of The Schmitter – something named after one of my all-time favorite Phils? Will CBP security haul me out after stadium personnel tire of my demands for something called The Bowa Blast?

Stay tuned!

Adam Perry Lang's Smoked Chicken Livers

I've mentioned before that I'm a huge fan of Adam Perry Lang's cookbook SERIOUS BARBECUE. I first heard Lang on The BS Report podcast over at ESPN and asked for the book for Father's Day. Within pages I knew that I'd found somebody whose thoughts about outdoor grilling and barbecue resembled my own ("it's all barbecue, and it all can be tremendously delicious"), who wasn't afraid to use high heat and leave the lid open, who didn't follow tried and true traditions and built flavors using marinades, brines, rubs, basting sauces, finishing sauces and more.

In the few months I've had the book I've made variations on several Lang recipes, everything from a sweet and spicy BBQ sauce to our new favorite pork chop recipe and some beer bathed brats that will be returning to the menu next weekend for NFL opening weekend.

But this weekend I decided I wanted to try his recipe for Smoked Chicken Livers. I don't know how you feel about them, but I love chicken livers – livers of any kind, really – which is a dramatic culinary turn that would make my adolescent head spin were I to go back in time.

I vividly recall attempts to get me to eat fried liver and onions as a kid, an experiment that failed miserably. These days, whenever I see it on the menu at a diner or as a restaurant special it quickly jumps to the top of my list of possible dishes. Frankly, I'd make it at home if anybody else in my house (dog not included) liked it and my wife wouldn't complain about the sites and smells that accompany its preparation.

With a trip to LBI coming up this weekend I thought it would be a great time to try the chicken livers. First, they take a fair amount of preparation and with a light work schedule I'd have time during the day for the cleaning and cooking required. Second, my father-in-law is a fellow chicken liver aficianado and I thought it'd be fun to give the finished product a try with him.

With two lbs. of chicken livers washed, trimmed and cleaned followed by an overnight soak in a bath of whole milk, I got everything ready for my first foray into what was essentially paté making. Here's how it went...

With the chicken livers patted dry and seasoned after their milk bath it was time to fire up the grill and soak the applewood chips for the purpose of providing smoke.

If you were ever wondering, that is what 2 lbs. of washed, trimmed, soaked and seasoned chicken livers look like!

My one complaint about Lang's cookbook is that it won't stay open on its own. There it is at top left jammed under our kitchen ledge. In the middle of the photo are the garlic, thyme and marjoram, salt and pepper, and sliced shallots that will be cooked in unsalted butter.

Cooking the shallots until just golden. Who doesn't love the smell of shallots or onions cooking in butter?

Time for the herbs and spices to do their thing. You have to be careful here. I had to watch this step carefully and stir frequently to keep the mixture from getting too dark.

You have to love a recipe that calls for almost a cup of bourbon. I went middle-of-the-road with Wild Turkey as opposed to the cheaper Old Granddad and the pricier Maker's Mark.

Remember when I asked who didn't like the smell of shallots cooking in butter? The aroma from the pan as the bourbon deglazes and carmelizes the whole shallot/spice/herb mix is another to die for.

With the pan deglazed and shallots carmelized it's time for, you guessed it, the heavy cream.

It's a tight fit on the grill. I probably should have gone with a smaller pan for the shallot mix. The middle and right burners are off with the smoker box full of applewood chips barely visible there in the upper left.

The temperature is about as low as I can get it but we're pumping out some nice smoke.

An hour later and here's the chicken livers combined with the cream and shallot mixture. You blend the two about halfway through and you can see that the smoke has turned the cream from white to a smokey brown. At this point I had to check and see how the chicken livers tasted and picked a plump one from the mixture. The smokey flavor is subtle and the meat inside is amazingly rich, moist and creamy.

After pulsing and adding some more unsalted butter the mixture is ready for cooling and refrigerating. Admittedly, the mixture neither looks great at this point nor does the flavors justice. The pepper is too overpowering and the room temperature mixture is a bit runny. Alas, even I was a bit skeptical that the end result would be a winner.

One night in the fridge later and the spread has really come together. Like chili or a stew that tastes better the next day the Smoked Chicken Livers are wonderful. Scooped from the serving bowl and served atop a cracker the taste and consistency is like a creamier, richer and more pepperty braunschweiger or even an upscale version of the liverwurst on rye I loved as kid (and still love today).

What Has THG Been Doing for the Last Three Weeks?!

While sending somebody THG links for an upcoming story/interview request I realized that I have not posted anything here since about three weeks ago when the world was abuzz with talk of the kegger on the White House lawn. (That's not to say I've been away from writing about food and drink, but followers of my Twitter feed know that.)

So, you may be wondering, what the heck has been happening at THG HQ over the last few weeks? The answer in one word... lots!

The first big event since last we spoke was the latest installment of what has become an annual tradition on par with Thanksgiving here at Casa THG... the European Trash Cinema BBQ. This little gathering got its start a few years back when our UK pal artist Adrian Salmon was in the States for the Baltimore Comic-Con and we introduced him to a world filled with Old Bay, steamed crabs and beer can chicken. Unfortunately, I also became reacquainted with Seagram's VO Gold that night and given the way the evening ended it's amazing there was a second ETP BBQ... or ETPBQ as they've become known.

But my wife is nothing if not patient, understanding and forgiving so each summer has seen this spectacle return, usually accompanied by mountains of pulled pork, other grilled goodies and sweet and tasty desserts that my pals (including Tomb it May Concern mastermind/Tough to Kill co-author David Zuzelo who gifted me with a massive box of Batman comics and graphic novels that I'm wading through and will be posting about at Exploitation Retrospect) gleefully devour into the wee hours.

This year's gathering was intimate compared to previous events with just eight friends joining us for the evening (past events have featured three times that number), but that didn't stop the food and beer from flowing. Armed with my copy of Adam Perry Lang's Serious Barbecue (my new bible and go-to cookbook) we rolled out my homemade pulled pork, a sweet and spicy whiskey barbecue sauce, beer-bathed brats with grilled onions (which will be making their return for NFL kickoff weekend), my father-in-law's classic potato salad (kicked up with a touch of bacon), spareribs and not one but two kinds of cole slaw (traditional and Ina Garten's amazing Blue Cheese Slaw, a new fave in this house).

The event was a rousing success though the ribs disappointed me. Though pals gave them the thumbs-up both Chris and I thought they were a bit tough and chewy, not as tender and tasty as my usual slabs. Frankly, I blame the full slabs I purchased at Costco. I usually purchase the Costco-butchered ribs which feature thick, meaty portions with nice marbling and enough fat to deliver juicy and delicious ribs. The pre-packed Smithfield slabs I purchased seemed leaner, perhaps too lean, and never gave me the shrink from the bone I look for when initial cooking the ribs in the oven before they get finished on the grill. Lesson learned.

Naturally, I've also been busy making sure that copies of the latest (and final) issue of THE HUNGOVER GOURMET have been making their way out into the world. Due to some unexpected client projects this has been a bit more glacially-paced than I would like, but we're getting there. There's still time to order copies from our on-line store or send $3 (cash or money order, no checks) to PO Box 5531, Lutherville, MD 21094-5531. Early feedback on the issue has been very positive with Louis Fowler's epic culinary trip through Big Lots being singled out by many.

Speaking of projects with a lengthy gestation period, I'm also pleased to report that after three-plus years our kitchen renovation is about 99% complete. We began renovating the room back in the summer of 2006 but never finalized the backsplash due to our need for a new roof (heavy, windy storms were causing our kitchen ceiling and walls to leak like something out of a horror flick). With that major expense finally checked off our list earlier this summer we were able to get the backsplash installed and begin thinking about the last touches needed to complete the room, namely a new light fixture over the kitchen table and a fresh coat of paint on the ceiling. I'll be happy to have these pieces complete as we close in on our fourth anniversary here at the house.

That pretty much brings you up to date on what's been going on over the last few weeks. I don't know about where you live dear reader but we're smack dab into the dog days of summer here in Baltimore and my office is sweltering thanks to the various computers and printers, not to mention the "closed door policy" intended to keep my two-year-old at bay. I promise more posts to come in the days ahead, including my take on JULIE & JULIA, more coffee chatter, and even – dare I say it? – a THG website update.

Till then, relax, it's only cooking.

You're Not the Master of the Grill...

...till you bring a suckling pig to the Patriots game.

That's just one of the pithy bon mots tossed off by Bill "The Sports Guy" Simmons during his recent BS Report podcast with chef/author Adam Perry Lang. Lang, whose new book Serious Barbecue is getting great reviews over at Amazon, appears on the usually sports-centric podcast to talk about the proper way to tailgate, some under- and overrated cuts of meat, what to order at a steakhouse and more.

I was prepared to hate the guy but loved Lang's down-to-earth approach and his seemingly sincere desire to help people deliver better barbecue.

Check out this podcast at iTunes or go directly to The BS Report archive.

Slow Oven-Cooked Ribs

I returned home from a recent Costco excursion and realized that between our bulk meat purchases (Costco pork chops are the best!), cornucopia of Omaha Steaks boxes and various other frozen goodies we needed to do some shopping in our freezer for a couple weeks and take a break from doing big grocery store trips.

We actually stuck to the plan and had four or five meals from the freezer this week, including a hearty and delicious Vegetable Soup from Home Bistro, our fave Pork Chops with Country Gravy, and some Chicken Breast Cutlets with Pasta.

Since I'd also picked up some frozen pork barbecue at Costco I asked Chris to be on the lookout for an inexpensive slab of ribs when she was at the store yesterday. Mission accomplished and she found nearly 2.5 lbs. of pork spareribs for less than $6... and while I love Andy Nelson's in Cockeysville, the same ribs would be at least $15.

So, with the rains finally out of the region but a cold, stiff wind in its place I decided that it was unlikely I'd be able to do my usual outdoor rib recipe and opted instead for a Slow Oven Cooked inside recipe. I've just pre-heated the oven though the ribs were given a good rubdown with Head Country Championship Seasoning a couple hours ago.

UPDATE: The ribs turned out pretty damn good if I do say so myself. The aroma of slow cooking pork filled the house and Chris even commented that when she pulled into our garage she could smell the deliciousness while she was still in the car.

The top photo is the Head Country-rubbed ribs before they were covered with foil and placed in the oven. The middle photo shows the steamy slabs as they looked out of the cooking pan while I was draining the grease. After a liberal dousing with Head Country BBQ Sauce they went back in the oven – uncovered – for another 30 minutes or so. The result is the third photo. And, hey, the frozen BBQ wasn't bad either! I think I paid about $8 for two containers (one of which is still in the freezer), so $12 for a huge BBQ meal for two (I added a couple bucks for the slaw mix) isn't bad at all!

Imagine My Surprise... Yuengling Barbecue Sauce?!

Just got back from a shopping trip to Wegmans where I stuck pretty close to my shopping list.

With one exception.

While picking up some black beans for tomorrow night's Black Beans and Rice to go with our Baja Fish Tacos I turned around and gave the barbecue sauce shelf a quick glance. I'm always hoping that Head Country will make it this far east, saving me the trouble of ordering cases of it every six months.

So imagine my surprise when I saw several bottles of sauce staring back at me with the tell-tale script of the Yuengling beers I've been known to throw back on occasion! Yep, Yuengling has branched out into the barbecue sauce business with a Lager Sauce, Hot Lager Sauce, Ying Wing Sauce and there might have been one other one. I grabbed a Lager Sauce and will report back next week on how it is.

Information about the line of sauces is sketchy at best. The Yuengling blog doesn't appear to have any mention of it, nor does the Yuengling website but a couple brief reviews over at the Barbecue Bible website make it sound promising.

UPDATE: The Yuengling Lager Sauce line has its own website.

Pedro No Shoot Zee Bool... Who Dunnit?

I'm surprised that in this overly-sensitive, super-politically-correct world of ours that the billboards for South Carolina's South of the Border, um, attraction haven't come under relentless fire from the PC Police. How can Pedro (taking a siesta at right), the tourist trap's sleepy, stereotypical Mexican continue to exist in a world where the Frito Bandito (far right) is but a vague memory? (Frito Bandito image courtesy of TheBandito.org)

Much has taken place since our last post, including: the wedding that we drove to Georgia for; another 10 hours in the car; a somewhat delusional trip to the supermarket; a torrential "scattered shower" that drove us from the beach and down to the end of the island; and, the kind of low-key relaxation that can only come when the house you're staying in sits on the edge of five undisturbed miles of nature preserve.

But I'd be remiss if I didn't provide a review of Southern Soul BBQ, an authentic Southern barbecue shack located on Saint Simons Island. After spending the early afternoon driving to and from Savannah (see previous post), we arrived back at our hotel to find friends enjoying a rainy dip in the resort's oceanside pools. Once Hanna's rains became steadier and less enjoyable we moved the party inside and spent some time relaxing in the hot tub and pool located in the resort's atrium.

Since none of us were in the mood to get dressed and geared up for a dinner out we decided to try some take-out from Southern Soul BBQ. Unable to decide what to get (smoked chicken? pulled pork sandwich?) and knowing it would probably be awhile before I got a chance to come back and give the place another go I figured I'd simply stock up and see how it compared to some of my favorite BBQ joints, like Andy Nelson's and Head Country.

And stock up we did... our order included a pulled pork platter with mac & cheese and baked beans on the side; a pulled pork sandwich on white toast; a half-smoked chicken with sides of potato salad and hushpuppies; plus a side of cornbread and a last-minute addition of banana bread pudding, which I knew I couldn't mention once I got back to the hotel without having picked up an order.

You can imagine my dismay when the woman at Southern Soul asked me how many sets of utensils I needed and I sheepishly admitted "just two". What you can't imagine is my dismay when the order was rung up on the cash register and it came to less than $30 – and it appeared to be the right price!

Forget Southern hospitality and the way everybody says "please" and "thank you" and seems to genuinely care how your day is going. The most shocking thing about the South may be the absurdly low cost of eating out. This was a frequent topic of discussion during the weekend with other wedding guests – our typical meal out including tip and drinks came to about $30-35 per person. Not bad at all, especially when you add in the huge, and I mean huge, portions.

But you can have all the huge portions and low cost you want if the food isn't good. I really wanted to love Southern Soul, with its cool logo and a charming setting in an old fish market, conveniently located next to a small but stocked liquor store (where I picked up a six-pack of the teriffic Sweetwater 420 Extra Pale Ale mentioned in a previous post).

When I pulled in to the small parking lot to pick up the order I knew right away we'd made a good choice. The aroma from the smokers parked in front of the restaurant greets you the moment you open your door, signalling the fact that you're getting real hardwood-smoked meats, the kind of meal that only comes with time.

After spending a few minutes enjoying the shack's photo-filled interior and contemplating whether or not I wanted a soda to go with my sandwich our order was ready and I headed back to the hotel where I had to juggle the bulging sack of BBQ and a bag of soda and beer.

We spread the meal out on the room's table and started to dig in, sampling bites from each platter, container and tub as we got utensils ready and noted our favorites in our head. From a flavor and aroma standpoint, Southern Soul's pulled pork is hard to beat. Decidedly different than the more finely chopped and sauced barbecue served up at Andy Nelson's, the sandwich and platter from Southern Soul came packed with large, smoky hunks and flavorful strands of shredded meat.

Unfortunately, there was one thing that kept us from immediately declaring that this was the best pulled pork we'd ever tried – it was kinda dry. Luckily, I'd grabbed a half-dozen or more takeout tubs of Southern Soul's own sauces, one a sweet, thick sauce with a hickory flavor while the other was a more vinegar-based sauce that I believe is more popular in North Carolina.

Once the pork was soaked with some sauce it definitely started to come closer to the taste my mind had created when I first got a whiff of the aroma from the smokers. And while the sandwich usually comes on a toasted bun I'm glad I went off the menu with the large, thick slices of lightly-toasted white bread (a choice even the woman who took my order said sounded good)... they provided a hearty handful of a sandwich that got better as the sauce soaked into the hunks of pork.

The half-smoked chicken (shown at right), however, had no flavor or juiciness issues. The flavor was prominent without being overwhelming and meat below the darkly-colored skin was moist, juicy and bursting with smoky goodness.

As far as the sides went, I found the hushpuppies, Soul Slaw, potato salad and cornbread to be good but unmemorable while Chris really liked the baked beans and the gooey mac & cheese. I didn't try the banana bread pudding (I'm not much of a banana guy) and Chris thought it was a bit sweet but that didn't stop it from being finished the next day before we headed out for a walk on the beach and an afternoon by the pool.

Had the pulled pork been a little juicier I wouldn't hesitate to name Southern Soul one of the best barbecue joints I've ever tried. That quibble aside, Southern Soul is well worth a side trip to Saint Simons if you find yourself heading up or down I-95 and want a bite of smoky, southern flavor.

Jane & Michael Stern Rank Best BBQ Joints

Few questions will engender more debate among food fans than "What's your favorite barbecue joint?". I have several of my own, especially Andy Nelson's here on my home turf and Head Country when I'm out visiting my brother in Oklahoma. Sadly, neither makes the list of Jane & Michael Stern's dozen best places in the US, but that's okay – it just gives me more places to add to my growing list of barbecue places to try whenever we're on the road.

Obama Beats McCain! (As Barbecue Guest, That Is)

Ah, American media. I will never long for things to post while there's an election on the horizon.

With serious issues like gas prices, the housing market, the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan, and the economy here at home all weighing on peoples' minds, hard hitting journalists want to know... which candidate would you rather break beef with at your holiday barbecue?

The results shouldn't come as much of a shock. Men are split while women prefer Obama. Whites want McCain while minorities would invite the senator from Chicago. Youngsters? Obama, 'natch, while AARP members are strictly rockin' it with McCain.

Frankly, I don't think I want either one at my house. I think they'd say anything to get the Hungover Gourmet "bump" and the Secret Service guys would eat all the pulled pork.

Can't I just invite Clinton? Bill, that is.

Memorial Day Sticker Shock

Everybody keeps talking about how much gas prices have gone up, making holiday travel a bigger burden on American families than at any time in our history. But what about that other Memorial Day tradition – the holiday BBQ? CNN reports that we should be prepared to pay more for, well, everything when we go shopping for food and drink this weekend.